The beautiful old town square , a marketplace since the 11th century with the truly wondrous astronomical clock , is filled with stalls , an enormous light-twinkling tree and the scents of hot punch , mead and roasting chestnuts .
As rain dribbled through a makeshift red tent at their pop-up atop a peckham car park , they served up innovative food : cured pork fat and cobnuts ; chicken skin and mead , and even lamb-heart flat breads with a yoghurt and anchovy dressing .